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2003 Climbing Log

January 3 - Planned to do the Grand Slam but felt sick on Meeker so I just went home. It was still a fun day up the Loft route, complete with an 800 foot glissade on the way down. I sat at Chasm Lake for a while just soaking up the moment. With tears in my eyes, I finally turned away from my favorite mountain, knowing that I would soon live a days drive away instead of an hours. I was happy to spend my last day in the mountains alone. Like old friends, they'll be right here when I get back, ready to open themselves up to me and teach me about myself.

January 5 - Climbed in Loch Vale with Lisa. We ran into Sally, and Melissa and some other friends from Boulder that day in the parking lot. We Toproped Mixed Feelings and some of the thin ice flows.

January 10 -  Climbed Anthill Direct 5.9 in Eldorado Canyon with Jason. This was a great route with an imposing roof on the second pitch that was just plain fun to climb! 

January 12 - Climbed at Combat rock with Kurt and Jason. We climbed the Diagonal 5.9 and then Arkansas Patriot 5.9+ and the Tree Roof 5.8. Kurt took a small swing across the face on his first aid fall when a cam he was pulling on ripped. I am going to miss the granite of the front range!!

January 17 - Climbed at Lincoln Falls with Vance. We climbed the Bowling Alley in WI3 conditions and called it a day. It was nice to get to climb with Vance again.

January 20 - Climbed in Ouray with Lisa and Alex. Alex led all day so we got free rides. I toproped an M7 climb that was probably the hardest thing I have ever climbed in Winter.  Good Stuff.... on TR. :)

January 21 - Still in Ouray. Lisa and I climbed a couple of lines before I headed back to Fort Collins for my final week in Colorado. As of February 1, I live in Utah.

January 27 - Climbed at Palisade with Andrew and Matt. We climbed the Frenzy Pillar's south face. This is one of the best routes at Palisade. I had to aid the 5.11 crux but I was still pleased. Andrew led up this insane, overhanging dihedral that was full of great holds and went at 5.9. Beautiful.

February - March - April - May - June - July - August - September ( I was traveling too much to keep this current for these months)

Red Rocks and Joe's Valley with Jason - Bouldered at Joe's Valley for a couple days in the Right Fork and then headed to Red Rocks. Rained a lot so we climbed at Urban Crag (local limestone) and eventually climbed a lot in the Dark Corridor, the Gallery, Sweet Pain wall, Wall of Confusion. We only had two trad outings, both on Mescelito. Both times attempting Cat in the Hat. Next time I am bringing a damn guide book. :) One attempt produced a probable new route we called 9 Lives. I also hiked to the base of the Rainbow Wall. Nice... This was a fun trip and we made some good friends in the 13 mile campground.

Road Trip to Moab to solo and to meet Jason - Started this trip by attempting to solo the Kingfisher. Got to the third pitch and then joined another party with whom I finished the route the next day. Spent a day in Long Canyon and at Big Bend.  Met Jason and climbed a lot at Potash and Big Bend. Finished up with Jason climbing Castleton and Ancient art in a day. Then drove to meet Koren and her father in the southern Swell.

The San Rafael Swell with Koren and her father - We hiked Bell and Little Wild Horse Canyon on day, Devil's Canyon one day, and spent a day hanging out in Goblin's Valley State Park.

Moab with  Koren and her mother - Hiked around the Slickrock bike trail, climbed a little at Potash, and spent some time driving around Arches and Canyonlands NPs.

Road trip to Colorado - Climbed at Combat Rock with Kurt and spent a great day climbing with Lisa at Lumpy. 

City of Rocks -  For my birthday weekend, Koren, Ian, Amanda, Greta, Brad, Debbie and I spent a great two days at the City. Good routes included Pocket Rocket, Batwings, Wheat Thin, and Tribal Boundaries. This was great fun!!!!!!!

Logan Canyon - Various climbing days in the canyon.    Second Practice Wall - Fucoidal - Betagraph (Flashed my first 5.11)

Spring Canyon and Joe's Valley with Lisa - Lisa and I had planned to have a big week of climbing but a couple days before our trip, she hurt her wrist on Mount Shasta. We still camped for a while to catch up and spent a day in Spring Canyon near Helper and then a couple days at Joe's Valley in the Left Fork and New Joe's.

Three days snow camping and working in the Sawtooths with Koren - Koren and I spent a few days "winter" camping and working on Farley and Toxaway Lakes. Fun Stuff!!

Climbed Horstman Peak with Jared - On my first day in Stanley, I met Jared. The next day I video taped him snowboarding down the Sickle Couloir.  Crazy bastard! :)

My first trip to Yosemite - I just can't say enough good things about that place! Made some new friends and bagged some long routes.

Climbed Mount Heyburn with Koren - We climbed a nice couloir which splits the north side of the mountain. This was Koren's first snow climb and she sailed through without a worry. 

Climbed the Elephants Perch with Joel - Climbed the Mountaineer's route with Joel who was on his first big climb ever. Good stuff.

 Climbed the Super Slabs with Koren - We climbed a route called Bacon and Legs which had substantial runouts. That is a spicy meatball!

Climbed the Elephants Perch with Koren - We had a great day on the Mountaineer's Route.

Climbed in Boise at the Black Cliffs with Joel - This was my first time here and we had no guide so we climbed a few lines that looked good. 

Climbed the Super Slabs with Koren, Jason, Pina, Guillaume and Jenny - This was a fun weekend. We all climbed different things this day. Jason led Pina up his first 4 pitch route. Guillaume and Jenny climbed the hardest, scariest routes on the slabs of course. Koren and I climbed Catwoman which is the only well protected .10+ route on the Slabs.

Climbed the Elephants Perch with Guillaume - I finally got a chance to climb Astro Elephant and I didn't have to lead the cruxes. This was one of my best climbing days of the summer!! This route has some stiff sections. Especially if you are off route. :)

Climbed in Boise at the Black Cliffs with Koren and Chad and Katie - A fun time. The moves are fun at the Black Cliffs.

October 1 - Koren and I climbed the Finger of Fate in the Sawtooths. The Open Book seemed to be a little stiff for 5.8+ and no one told me there was an off width but we managed alright. Truly, this is a great route. Every pitch is quality climbing! The first three are in a corner that could be in Yosemite and you actually tunnel under the summit block. Great stuff and I was elated for Koren who climbed her first big spire. 

October 6 - Climbed in Logan Canyon with Koren and Ian. We climbed at Rodent Ranch and the Wall of Jericho. I on-sighted an easy 11 which was quite fun.  Koren led a 5.7 but I forget the name. It was nice to climb with Ian again.

October 9 - Climbed in Logan Canyon with Ian. We climbed at 385 crag and basically got worked on a couple 5.11s. Great Stuff though. I think we climbed Nuclear Fingers and something unnamed in a dihedral.

October 11 - 15 - Climbed in Colorado for 5 glorious days! The Mini-D with Andrew and Matt. I freed the third pitch! Climb of the Ancient Mariner 5.10a at Lumpy with Lisa and Jason. This is a spectacular Lumpy face climb. Pearl Harbor 5.10c at Combat Rock with Lisa while Jason led Pina up the Diagonal. A day in Eldo with Jason and Kurt. Jason and I climbed the Yellow Spur 5.9 and then Jason led the 1st pitch of the Bastille Crack with Kurt and we all toproped the Northcut start 5.10c. On my last day in town we Lisa, Kurt, Jason, Pina and I bouldered at the Torture Chamber and the Piano Boulders. it was a fitting end. Lisa, Jason and I climbed the overhang at the TC. This might be the most fun I have ever had in 5 days of climbing!

October 16 - Climbed in Logan Canyon with  Ian. Back at 385 crag we climbed Nuclear Fingers again and the route to the right which has a VERY hard finish.

October 23 - Bouldered at the cave area at the base of the canyon.

October 25 - Climbed in Logan Canyon with Koren and Ian. We climbed the two slab routes near the road Kentucky Fried Penguin 5.9+ and Kentucky fried Chicken 5.8+ and then went to the First Practice Wall and Monkey Wrench Buttress. The slab routes were quite good. Koren then led me up The Lost Bolt 5.7, a fun,  in obvious climb. We all climbed Bonnie 10a, Jolly Mon 10a before calling it a day.

November 14-  Bouldered at Big Bend with Guillaume, Jennifer, Lisa, and Jason. I got a new V3/4 boulder problem on the Wash Boulder.

November 15-  Jason, Lisa and I climbed the Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest. The first pitch has a 5.9 off width section which I will spend many weeks trying to forget. This was Lisa's first desert tower. Guillaume and Jenny climbed the first two pitches of Crack Wars.

November 16-  Climbed at Wall Street with the same crew. I climbed two new routes (Another Roadside Distraction and Pinhead). Jason led his first hard trad route in the desert. Last Tango in Potash. He stopped short of the anchors but not before taking several 6-foot whippers onto my #5 Camelot. Lisa then went up and gave it hell stopping just short of the anchors. Finally I went up and finished the last body length.  A good learning day for everyone.

December 24-  Brad Davidson was in town from Switzerland and we climbedT he Great White Icicle in Little Cottenwood Canyon. It was way to warm and we shouldn't have climbed it, but we managed none-the-less.